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Treatment of Photoaging
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     This Journal feature begins with a case vignette highlighting a common clinical problem. Evidence supporting various strategies is then presented, followed by a review of formal guidelines, when they exist. The article ends with the author's clinical recommendations.

    A 45-year-old fair-skinned woman has noted increasing sallowness, roughness, fine wrinkles, and mottled hyperpigmentation on her face. She is bothered by these changes and is worried about the development of nonmelanoma skin cancer. What treatments may minimize skin aging and lower the risk of skin cancer?

    The Clinical Problem

    Aging and exposure to the environment affect facial appearance. Age-related changes include benign growths and "gravitation," which results from a redistribution of fat, decreased skin elasticity, and bone loss. Exposure to the sun induces clinical and histologic changes to the skin (Figure 1), commonly called photoaging. Clinically, photoaging may be manifested as wrinkles (Figure 2, Figure 3, Figure 4, and Figure 5), skin roughness and dryness (Figure 3), irregular pigmentation (Figure 2, Figure 3, Figure 4, and Figure 5), telangiectasia (Figure 2 and Figure 4), sallowness (Figure 3 and Figure 5), and brown spots (lentigines, Figure 2, Figure 3, and Figure 4).1,2 Other common age-related skin changes include seborrheic keratoses (Figure 3 and Figure 5); actinic keratoses, which are sun-induced, premalignant, aesthetically displeasing, and sometimes symptomatic (burning and tender) growths; and "frown lines," which result from dynamic changes due to muscle hypertonicity.

    Figure 1. Photomicrographs of Normal Skin (Panel A) and Photoaged Skin (Panel B) (Hematoxylin and Eosin, x200).

    In moderately photoaged skin (Panel B), the epidermis is atrophic with thinning of the spinous layer and loss of the rete ridges. There is condensation of collagen beneath the basement-membrane zone and proliferation of the elastic fibers, which appear thickened, curled, and tangled. Deeper dermal collagen exhibits early basophilic degeneration. Telangiectasia is present in the upper dermis, in the zone of elastosis. Photomicrographs provided courtesy of Dr. Steven Tahan.

    Figure 2. A Woman in Early Middle Age with Prominent Telangiectasia, a Few Lentigines, and Fine Wrinkling.

    Figure 3. A Middle-Aged Woman with Some Skin Roughness, Mottled Hyperpigmentation, and Fine Telangiectasia.

    Evident are discrete, hyperpigmented macules consisting of sun-induced lentigines and age-related seborrheic keratoses.

    Figure 4. A Middle-Aged Woman with More Advanced Photoaging.

    This woman's skin shows pronounced wrinkling, mottled hyperpigmentation, vascular ectasia, lentigines, and a cherry angioma of the lower eyelid.

    Figure 5. A Woman in Late Middle Age with Coarse Wrinkling, Gravitational Changes (Enhanced Nasolabial Fold), Sallowness, Irregular Hyperpigmentation, and Seborrheic Keratoses.

    Wrinkles and telangiectasia are associated with increased risks of actinic keratoses and nonmelanoma skin cancer (age-adjusted odds ratio, 2 to 9).3,4,5 The presence of actinic keratoses is strongly associated with an increased risk of squamous-cell cancer.6 Therefore, persons with substantial photoaging should be examined periodically for actinic keratoses and skin cancers.

    Cumulative exposure to sunlight and exposure within the past 10 years are strongly associated with the risk of actinic keratoses and therefore squamous-cell cancer in people of any age. They are probably also related to the extent of photoaging, but recent exposure is not associated with the risk of basal-cell cancer.3,6 Risk factors for photoaging and skin cancer include fair skin, difficulty tanning, ease of sunburning, sunburns before the age of 20 years, and advancing age.2,3,4,7,8 Smoking is a moderate independent risk factor for wrinkling, telangiectasia, and squamous-cell cancer.8

    Ultraviolet B (UVB) radiation (wavelengths from 290 to 320 nm) is much more important for the induction of nonmelanoma skin cancer and actinic keratoses than ultraviolet A (UVA) radiation (320 to 400 nm).9,10 Both UVA and UVB radiation contribute to changes in pigment, including lentigines and telangiectasia, and wrinkles, but their relative contributions are controversial.11

    People who seek therapy for photoaging, benign growths, and frown lines face an extraordinary array of information, much of it misinformation. Thousands of Web sites offer products or procedures that promise to improve facial appearance. In 2002, more than 5 million nonsurgical and 1.5 million surgical cosmetic procedures, costing patients more than $13 billion, were performed.12 Although the procedures are highly profitable, few have been proved effective and few are well regulated.

    Strategies and Evidence

    Assessment

    Most changes that occur as a result of photoaging have similar causes and risk factors, but the extent and consequences of these changes vary greatly among patients. The decision about whether to provide treatment depends on the nature of the changes, their severity, the degree to which they bother the patient, and the patient's willingness to accept the risks and costs of treatment, which most insurance plans do not cover.

    Prevention and Therapy

    Protection from the Sun

    Protection from the sun at any age reduces the risk of actinic keratoses and squamous-cell cancer and the progression of photoaging.13,14,15,16 Reducing the risk of basal-cell cancer depends primarily on reducing sun exposure during childhood.17 In the absence of adequate protection from the sun, other treatments are less effective and may be more hazardous.

    Good protection strategies include wearing hats and other clothing and staying out of the sun. Also, many sunscreens that block UVB radiation are available. Sun protection factor (SPF) numbers equal the ratio of doses of ultraviolet radiation (predominantly UVB radiation) that result in erythema (sunburn) with protection to the doses that result in erythema without protection. SPF 2 equals a 50 percent block, SPF 15 equals a 93 percent block, and SPF 45 equals a 98 percent block. The blocking of UVA radiation by nonopaque sunscreens, including those that are claimed to block UVA radiation, cannot be consistently quantified and is generally less than an SPF of 3. Opaque sunscreens, which often contain titanium dioxide, can provide good protection from UVA radiation but may be cosmetically unacceptable.

    People typically apply sunscreens less than half as thickly as and less often than recommended, thus compromising their protection substantially.18 If applied as recommended, 170 g (6 oz) of sunscreen would provide only five whole-body applications for an adult. Daily application is essential for good protection. Sweating and swimming necessitate reapplication.

    In animals, the use of sunscreens has repaired preexisting damage and prevented further damage caused by exposure to ultraviolet radiation.14,15 In a randomized trial in humans, the use of a sunscreen with an SPF of 29 for two years stabilized histologic changes to the skin, whereas such photoaging increased in the placebo group.16 Although clinical data were not reported, histologic and clinical appearance are generally correlated.16 In controlled studies assessing the daily use of broad-spectrum sunscreens (with an SPF of 15 or higher) for up to 4.5 years, the incidence of actinic keratoses was reduced by about 40 percent, as compared with the incidence with no sunscreen use, and by 24 percent, as compared with discretionary sunscreen use. Daily use of sunscreens with an SPF of 15 or higher reduced the incidence of squamous-cell cancer by 25 percent, but the risk of basal-cell cancer was not reduced.19,20

    Although true allergic reactions to the active ingredients in sunscreens are rare, 17 percent of persons using a sunscreen with an SPF of 15 or higher over a seven-month period had irritation reactions, a major barrier to compliance.21 Sunscreens that provide protection against UVB radiation decrease the synthesis of vitamin D and may encourage increased exposure to the sun and to UVA radiation.22 However, the available data suggest that sunscreen use does not increase the risk of melanoma.23

    Hydroxy Acids

    Many preparations that contain alpha and beta hydroxy acids are both exfoliants and moisturizers. Hydroxy acids in low concentrations (typically 4 to 12 percent) are ubiquitous components of nonprescription creams and lotions that are promoted as being helpful for ameliorating the aging of skin. In high concentrations, these preparations are used as "peels." Their keratolytic and irritant effects depend on the specific acid, the concentration, and the pH. High concentrations of hydroxy acids or lower concentrations in combination with topical retinoids are often irritating. Overall effects on photoaging are limited.

    Skin treated with hydroxy acids admits 20 percent more UVB radiation than untreated skin, making concomitant sunscreen use essential.24 As compared with sunscreens or placebo alone, the use of 5 percent glycolic acid and 8 percent lactic acid creams for three to five months yielded somewhat greater improvement in roughness and mottled pigmentation in two randomized studies, and in sallowness in one study, but no greater improvement in wrinkles or actinic keratoses; unblinding may have occurred as a result of irritation.25,26 There is no evidence that high-cost creams are more effective than low-cost creams.

    Topical Retinoids

    Although topical retinoids (vitamin A derivatives) were initially controversial, it is now accepted that they reduce the severity of photoaging.27,28 Two topical retinoids, tretinoin and tazarotene, have been approved by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) for the "palliation" of the fine wrinkles and irregular pigmentation of photoaging.29,30,31 In addition, tretinoin reduces tactile roughness, and tazarotene is approved for the treatment of lentigines.29,30,31 In clinical trials typically lasting six months, some improvement in wrinkling, mottled hyperpigmentation, and roughness was noted in the majority of patients treated with retinoids, at a rate roughly twice that among control subjects who used sunscreen and emollients.27,29,30,31,32 At least one fourth of retinoid users had moderate or greater improvement in fine wrinkling, mottled hyperpigmentation, or skin roughness.27,28,29,30,31,32 However, because the frequency of irritation (and the likelihood of unblinding) increases in direct proportion to the retinoid concentration, it is difficult to determine the true magnitude of improvement attributable to the active agent and the optimal dose. Lower concentrations are probably less beneficial. Continued use seems to be needed to maintain a benefit. Insurance rarely provides coverage for topical retinoids that are prescribed for photoaging. There is no good evidence of the efficacy of other vitamin A derivatives often found in over-the-counter preparations (e.g., night creams and moisturizers), including retinol and retinaldehyde.

    The penetration of UVB radiation increases by as much as one third in skin that has been treated with topical retinoids, as compared with untreated skin.33 Therefore, retinoids are unlikely to provide a clinically significant net benefit without concomitant sun protection. The effect of topical retinoids on the incidence of skin cancer and actinic keratoses is unclear.

    Fluorouracil Cream

    Actinic keratoses appear as discrete, rough, pink spots and are common in people, particularly those over the age of 50 years, who have other signs of photoaging. In sunny locales, about 25 percent of newly identified actinic keratoses will spontaneously regress.34 However, these lesions are premalignant and may evolve into squamous-cell carcinomas. Although evidence is lacking, it is likely that treating actinic keratoses reduces the risk of squamous-cell cancer. Topical application of liquid nitrogen (cryosurgery) clears most lesions and is considered the standard of care.35 Topical 5 percent fluorouracil cream used twice daily for three weeks on body areas with a high density of actinic keratoses reduces the number of keratoses by about 70 percent36 and decreases the epidermal roughness associated with photoaging. The results are similar to those observed with medium-depth chemical peels.37 Substantial irritation occurs during the period when topical fluorouracil cream is being applied and for approximately two weeks afterward. The cream should not be used during pregnancy.

    Photodynamic therapy (topical application of aminolevulinic acid, followed about 16 hours later by exposure to blue light) is probably less effective than cryosurgery or the application of fluorouracil cream and is quite uncomfortable.38 Topical diclofenac, approved by the FDA for the treatment of actinic keratoses, is less irritating but far less effective than fluorouracil cream, reducing the number of lesions by about 16 percent.39 Although it has not been approved by the FDA for actinic keratoses, topical 5 percent imiquimod seems to be about as effective and as irritating as fluorouracil cream.40 Laser ablation of the epidermis for resurfacing (Table 1) has little long-term effect on the incidence of actinic keratoses.41

    Table 1. Common Nonsurgical Procedures for Photoaging, According to the Primary Indication.

    Procedures for Facial Rejuvenation

    Dozens of different procedures, ranging from relatively noninvasive approaches to those that are quite invasive, are advocated for facial rejuvenation. Some, including blepharoplasty and face-lifts, have been used for decades for loose, excess, or drooping skin of the eyelids and face. The procedures share the following features: they are expensive for the patient and highly profitable for the provider, and they have not been subjected to well-controlled studies. It has been estimated that about 1.7 million injections of botulinum toxin, 1 million microdermabrasions, 800,000 soft-tissue augmentation procedures, 500,000 chemical peels, and more than 800,000 laser procedures were performed in 2002 in the United States, representing an increase of more than 350 percent since 1997.12 Table 1 summarizes the possible indications for and risks of some common procedures. For most procedures listed in Table 1, the durability of beneficial effects is unknown but is usually measured in months or a few years, and the risks are not well quantified.

    Botulinum Toxin

    Hypertonicity of muscles creates dynamic changes that are manifested as furrows (lines) of the forehead and glabellar areas. A decrease in muscle tone can reduce these furrows.42 Two antigenically distinct botulinum toxins (type A and type B), which block muscles through their neurotoxic effects, are commercially available. In December 2003, only type A (Botox) was approved for cosmetic indications (treatment of moderate-to-severe glabellar lines).43 Aggressive promotion of Botox has prompted a warning letter from the FDA charging false and misleading promotional activities.44

    Since response is subjective, exact quantification is lacking; however, available data suggest that at least moderate improvement is noted in 50 to 75 percent of patients treated for glabellar lines.42,45 Improvement peaks one month after a single injection and is largely gone in four months.43,45 Hence, two or three treatments a year are needed to maintain the effect. Robust long-term data on efficacy and safety are not available, and long-term effects of repeated muscle denervation remain uncertain. Well-designed studies that quantify the efficacy and safety of botulinum toxin for the treatment of other wrinkles of the upper face, including crow's feet, are not available, but the results would probably be similar to those observed for glabellar lines.46 Good technique is essential for optimal results and safety. Therefore, patients should carefully assess the qualifications and experience of the physician.

    Skin Fillers

    More than 40 filler substances are used for soft-tissue augmentation, which is used for the treatment of coarse (deep) wrinkles and nondynamic furrows.47 In the United States, the most frequently used FDA-approved fillers are injectable bovine collagen preparations, which typically last for three to six months. Recently, the FDA approved a hyaluronic acid filler (Restylane). In one study, hyaluronic acid was associated with a higher incidence of severe bruising (3.6 percent), pain (3.6 percent), and tenderness (2.9 percent) than was a collagen preparation (Zyplast) (0.7 percent, 1.4 percent, and 1.4 percent, respectively); the effects of the two agents on wrinkles were similar at six months.48 The relative safety of approved fillers is not clear. Because of cost and the need for retreatment, few patients find injectable collagen fillers an acceptable form of long-term therapy. Silicone injections are highly profitable for the physician but have not been approved by the FDA, and they should be avoided.

    Simple Office Procedures

    Benign vascular proliferations, including linear telangiectasia, cherry angiomas, and spider angiomas, which often occur with aging and cutaneous photodamage, respond to a variety of procedures, including those involving lasers (Table 1). Cryosurgery and electrosurgery can lighten limited numbers of discrete pigmented lesions (e.g., seborrheic keratoses and lentigines) and can remove actinic keratoses as effectively as and less expensively than lasers.49

    Microdermabrasion is very popular and is commonly performed by dermatologists and nonmedical practitioners. The procedure involves the use of a closed-loop, negative-pressure system to deliver to and remove from the skin aluminum oxide or sodium chloride crystals, which mechanically remove (sand off ) the superficial epidermis. Small uncontrolled studies, patients' opinions, and histologic findings suggest that microdermabrasion contributes to small improvements in photoaging, but reliable data are lacking.50

    Areas of Uncertainty

    Many unregulated and highly profitable products and services are available to reduce signs of aging. Formal training and certification are not required for a physician to offer cosmetic procedures. Separating hype from facts about safety and effectiveness is difficult, and data from randomized trials to support most interventions are lacking.

    Many topical or oral products containing vitamins C and E, coenzyme Q10, bioflavonoids, fruit extracts, kinerase (N6-furfuryladenine), beta carotene and other antioxidants, and green-tea extracts have been promoted for the treatment and prevention of photoaging. Data to support these claims are lacking.

    Thinning of skin, decreases in collagen, and increases in skin dryness often accompany menopause. Hormone-replacement therapy may be associated with a small increase in collagen and skin thickness and in the mechanical and water-holding properties of skin, with perhaps minor reductions in clinical wrinkling and skin dryness.51,52 However, these benefits, which are modest at best, do not justify the risks associated with hormone-replacement therapy.53

    Although beta carotene has been proposed as a systemic chemopreventive agent for nonmelanoma skin cancer, the available data suggest that it is ineffective.17 Data are lacking on the effects of other proposed preventive medications, such as nonsteroidal antiinflammatory drugs and statins, on the risk of nonmelanoma skin cancer.

    Guidelines

    The American Academy of Dermatology has published guidelines for the care of actinic keratoses and photoaging that emphasize the importance of sun protection but do not recommend particular treatments.35,54 The academy has also published guidelines pertaining to specific therapies.55,56,57,58

    Conclusions and Recommendations

    Signs of photoaging, including sallowness, roughness, fine wrinkles, and mottled hyperpigmentation, are reduced by photoprotection. I routinely recommend daily use of sunscreen (SPF 15 or higher), which retards and slightly diminishes photoaging and decreases the incidence of actinic keratoses and squamous-cell cancer. I discourage tanning, both artificial and natural.

    Given the recognized associations between benign manifestations of photoaging (such as fine wrinkling and telangiectasia) and potentially serious skin lesions, patients with substantial photoaging should be evaluated for actinic keratoses and skin cancers that would warrant treatment. For limited numbers of actinic keratoses, I recommend cryosurgery. If actinic keratoses are numerous and a patient will accept the associated irritation, I prescribe topical fluorouracil cream, used twice daily for two to three weeks — a regimen that reduces the number of actinic keratoses and improves skin texture. When standard therapies are unsuitable, photodynamic therapy and topical imiquimod may be appropriate.

    Patients should be reassured about benign lesions, which merit treatment only for cosmetic reasons. For patients who desire treatment for photoaging, topical retinoids, available by prescription, are the most effective topical therapy that can be administered by the patients. Although not usually covered by insurance, they are no more expensive than many cosmetic products for which there are claims of antiaging effects without supporting evidence. Over-the-counter preparations that contain hydroxy acids also have small beneficial effects on roughness, sallowness, and changes in pigment. The benefits of emollients and makeup to smooth and camouflage these changes should not be underestimated. Many cosmetics also contain sunscreens.

    Several procedures may improve facial appearance (Table 1). People who are considering these techniques should understand the associated costs, possible risks, and temporary nature of the effects.

    I am indebted to Gail A. Howrigan, Ed.D., and Jean C. Lee, B.A., for providing essential editorial assistance.

    Source Information

    From the Department of Dermatology, Beth Israel Deaconess Medical Center and Harvard Medical School, Boston.

    Address reprint requests to Dr. Stern at the Department of Dermatology, Beth Israel Deaconess Medical Center, 330 Brookline Ave., Boston, MA 02215, or at rstern@bidmc.harvard.edu.

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    Related Letters:

    Treatment of Photoaging

    Rohrich R. J., Decherd M. E., Stern R. S.(Robert S. Stern, M.D.)